The Coral Coast of Western Australia starts two hour's drive north of Perth, and continues for more than 1,000 kilometres until it reaches Exmouth. The stunning coastal scenery, isolated beaches, a coral reef you can snorkel by just stepping off the sand, prolific wildflowers, unique Australian animals and the lure of the outback make this one of the world's great road trips. I have wanted to do it forever and last year I got the chance. David and I flew to Perth, hired a 4WD and headed north. As it turned out the road is sealed the entire way and we didn't need the 4WD even for the few dirt road side-trips but it was fun to have nevertheless.
Perth to Cervantes - 200 km
(Note: I have rounded out all the distances.)
Technically the Coral Coast doesn't start until Cervantes, 200 km north of Perth, but the simplest way to begin our road trip was from Perth. We took the coastal road, Indian Ocean Drive, and set a leisurely pace exploring Yanchep and Two Rocks before taking a short detour to the Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park.
The Pinnacles Desert
The Pinnacles Desert is a vast gallery of ancient sculptures created by nature in a fit of artistic creativity. Jutting out of the sand in their thousands, no two pinnacles are alike. The formations are so striking that Dutch sailors mistook them for the remains of an ancient city.
The Pinnacles are made from time-worn limestone and have been estimated to be as old as half a million years. They are a few kilometres off the main highway. Once you arrive there is a 4 km driving loop through the formations with plenty of places to pull over. There is also a short walking trail. I recommend taking the driving loop because it goes much further into the desert than the walk. The road is unsealed but perfectly suitable for two-wheel drive cars. The first hundred metres or so are the worst. There is a $12 per vehicle entry fee.
For more information on visiting The Pinnacles see - Pinnacles and Stromatolites: Ancient formations and living fossils on the Coral Coast
The Pinnacles Desert
There are so many striking formations.
To get to Lake Thetis turn off the highway toward Cervantes and take Hanson Bay Rd on your left. For more information on the Stromatolites see - Pinnacles and Stromatolites: Ancient formations and living fossils on the Coral Coast
Lake Thetis stromatolites.
You could easily make Cervantes your first overnight stop. With a population of less than 500 people, white sand beaches and turquoise water it is a lovely town to sit back and soak up the unhurried fishing village atmosphere. We wanted to get some serious kilometres under our belt on our first day so we called in for lunch instead before pushing on to Geraldton.
Things to see and do:
- The Pinnacles and the stromatolites of Lake Thetis - See separate headings above.
- The Cervantes Art Trail - Call in at the Pinnacles Visitor Centre on Cadiz Street for a map showing street art installations around town.
- Aragon Street Foreshore - The beautifully laid out park at the corner of Aragon and Catalonia Street is a great place to stop for lunch.
- The Lobster Shack - Take a factory tour at the Lobster Shack and see how West Australian rock lobsters are processed for export around the world. If you want to sample one try not to arrive at lunch time and be warned - they are not cheap. We took one look at the crowds and general chaos and had lunch at the much quieter Seashells Cafe on Aragon St opposite the park instead.
- Thirsty Point - Don't miss the lookout at Thirsty Point, we did, and now we have to go back!
Cervantes to Geraldton - 225 km
Jurien Bay
Twenty minutes north of Cervantes, Jurien Bay is another slow-paced seaside town with loads to do if you scratch the surface a little.
Things to see and do:
- The Jurien Bay Underwater Snorkel and Dive Trail - A family friendly underwater loop which starts from Dobbyn Park. Beginning only 25 metres from shore the trail is an artificial reef growing around 70 reef balls which were laid down in 2013. I would love to tell you that the snorkelling was magical but it was too cold in September to contemplate going in without a wetsuit.
- The Turquoise Way Trail - This sealed shared use walking and cycling track along the coast was one of the drawcards for us at Jurien Bay. Beginning north of town near the boat harbour it runs along the coast to Beachridge Drive in the south. Sadly, on the day we set aside to cycle it the wind was blowing so hard we could barely stand let alone cycle - another reason for us to return to the Coral Coast!
Geraldton
Geraldton is the last large town for more than a thousand kilometres and with so many historic buildings, a great place to stop for a few days. We spent three nights there on the way north and another night driving south. Both times we stayed at Mantra Geraldton, centrally located serviced apartments with stunning views across the Indian Ocean. For my review of the apartments see - Mantra Geraldton on Western Australia's Coral Coast
Things to see and do:
- The Abrolhos Islands - The 122 islands of the Abrolhos group are 60 kilometres off the coast of Geraldton. Low lying and littered with coral reefs the Abrolhos became a magnet for shipwrecks. The most famous was the wreck of the Batavia in 1629.
Since seeing the remains of the Batavia at the WA Shipwrecks Museum in Fremantle and reading the story of her wreck and the subsequent murder of 125 men, women and children by a small group of survivors, I have been fascinated by the story. Flying over Beacon Island where many of the survivors of the shipwreck spent their last terrifying months, seeing where the Batavia went down, and snorkelling the stunning coral of East Wallabi Island was a highlight of our time in Geraldton. To learn more on the history of the Batavia and the light plane tour we took to the Abrolhos see - The Abrolhos Islands with Shine Aviation
Beacon Island, also known as Batavia's Graveyard
- The WA Museum, Geraldton - Whether you make it out to the Abrolhos or not, the Shipwrecks Gallery of the WA Museum of Geraldton has an extensive and fascinating display on the Batavia and other West Australian shipwrecks.
- The leaning trees of Greenough - As you drive north on the Brand Highway about 20 minutes south of Geraldton look out for Greenough and its famous leaning trees. There is one right next to the road with a spot to pull over and take photos. Don't be surprised if it is windy. The trees didn't grow that way without a little help from mother nature.
A leaning tree at Greenough.
- St Francis Xavier Cathedral - A country town on the Coral Coast is about the last place I expected to find a Byzantine style cathedral but there it is - on the aptly named Cathedral Avenue. St Francis Xavier Cathedral was designed by an architect turned Catholic Priest, Monsignor Hawes. Looking at the beautiful and impressive structure I wondered whether he was entirely content with his change of career.
St Francis Xavier Cathedral Geraldton.
- HMAS Sydney Memorial - HMAS Sydney went down in battle in World War II with the loss of its entire complement of 645 sailors. The location of the wreck remained a mystery for 66 years. The striking hilltop memorial is visible from much of central Geraldton, which is lucky because somehow we never made it up there - one more reason for us to return.
Geraldton to Carnarvon - 475 km
From Geraldton to Carnarvon was the longest leg of our trip. With the benefit of hindsight I would plan to break it up with an overnight stop at Kalbarri. Unless you have a camper or caravan there isn't anywhere else to stay. The road is good and there is zero traffic so we comfortably made the distance but there was very little time for detours or soaking up the sights.
Hutt Lagoon
We did make one detour, which added a few extra kilometres. Hutt Lagoon, is one of Western Australia's famous pink lakes. Having failed to see a pink lake in Esperance last year I wasn't going to miss Hutt Lagoon and this time the pink lake didn't disappoint. Although it wasn't quite the brilliant lolly pink I was hoping for it was pink enough to tick pink lakes off my travel to-do list. For more photos and details see - Hutt Lagoon: A pink lake you can drive to
Hutt Lagoon - the intensity of the pink varied. In some spots it was really pink. In others it wasn't. The colour also changed as the clouds drifted across the sky.
Lynton Convict Depot
For history buffs and lovers of old buildings the Lynton Convict Depot is right next to Port Gregory Rd on the way to Hutt Lagoon. The depot is the best example of a convict hiring depot in Western Australia. Established to supply labour to the Geraldine Lead Mine, it dates from 1853.
Five hundred metres from the depot is Captain Sanford's house, stable and mill where you can wander around and see how the other half lived.
Are you old enough to remember Prince Leonard of Hutt River Province? I am. In April 1970 Leonard George Casley seceded his 18,500 acre property from the Commonwealth of Australia and the State of Western Australia. He styled the property the 'Principality of Hutt River' and himself H.R.H Prince Leonard. 47 years later the province still exists and continues to be 'ruled' by Prince Leonard, although sadly his wife Princess Shirley passed away in 2013. You can visit between 9 am and 4 pm every day except Christmas day. You don't need a passport!
David and I didn't have the time to visit Hutt River so I can't tell you whether it is worth the detour. It is on our list for our next trip though.
With its stunning coastal cliffs and nearby Kalbarri National Park, Kalbarri deserved a lot more than the brief lunch stop we gave it. You could easily plan to spend a few days here.
Monkey Mia is famous for dolphins. They visit the beach regularly where tourists are able to hand feed them. Monkey Mia is a significant detour from the main highway, much too far to include it as a stop on our Geraldton to Carnarvon drive. Another attraction to include in the list for our next trip.
Although we reached Carnarvon late in the day we had quite a long stop there on our way back down the Coral Coast. For a small town there is a surprising amount to see and do.
- Space and Technology Museum - David and I were just old enough to remember when the first astronauts landed on the moon. David remembers it better than me but then he remembers everything better than I do. The OTC Satellite Earth Station, now the site of the museum, played a significant role in tracking the moon landings. We spent hours wandering through the museum in a trip down memory lane. Banks of computer consoles and other equipment which were once state of the art are now frozen in time, doomed to look ever more archaic as the years pass.
State of the art technology or something out of the cave days? What do you think?
- One Mile Jetty - Although safety concerns have meant the closure of the jetty and its 'Coffee Pot' train, it is still worth the trip. David and I had a wonderful afternoon tea at the jetty cafe. If you have the energy there is a 3 km walking trail back to town.
- Murals and Historic Buildings - I love street murals and David has a soft spot for old buildings. Carnarvon has both in a central precinct small enough to cover in a short stroll.
An historic building in Carnarvon.
This was my favourite mural but it was a difficult choice.
Carnarvon to Coral Bay - 240 km
Coral Bay was the reason we came to the Coral Coast. The idea of just stepping off the beach straight onto Ningaloo Reef was my idea of heaven. As it turned out I enjoyed the road trip much more than I expected and the reef less so. Perhaps my expectations of the coral were too high, or maybe Coral Bay is a victim of its own popularity. Either way, the beach is beautiful, the town quaint and the coral just a little disappointing.
For my review of Coral Bay and snorkelling spots near Exmouth see - Is snorkelling on Ningaloo Reef overrated?
Coral Bay
Coral Bay to Exmouth - 150 km
For David and I, Exmouth, and the tip of North West Cape was the end of the road. Maybe it was the flock of emus we met wandering down the main street, or the big prawn in the Visitor Centre car park or the fact that we were more than 1200 kms north of Perth, itself one of the most isolated cities on the planet, but something about Exmouth made us feel we were on the very edge of the populated world. We spent four nights exploring, snorkelling, dipping our toes into the town's unusual origins and taking a break from hours on the road each day, then we turned around and headed home.
Emus in the main street.
The Big Prawn - Is there anything more quintessentially Australian than a 'big thing' in a country town.'
Things to see and do:
- Snorkelling spots in Cape Range National Park - Cape Range National Park not far from Exmouth, has golden sand beaches and turquoise blue water. For the best snorkelling head to the Oyster Stacks and for a beautiful beach go to Turquoise Bay. For more information on snorkelling spots around Exmouth see - Is snorkelling on Ningaloo Reef overrated?
Keep an eye out for wallabies and other wildlife.
- Yardie Creek Gorge - See the red rock gorges at Cape Range National Park. Yardie Creek Gorge is accessible along a short trail from the end of Yardie Creek Rd, the main road through the national park.
Yardie Creek Gorge.
- Whale sharks - Exmouth is famous for swimming with these gentle giants of the ocean.
- Vlamingh Head Lighthouse - The hill on which Vlamingh Head Lighthouse stands is perfect for watching whales and sunsets. In the half hour we were there we saw several humpbacks. Although they were quite close to the shore it still helped to have a pair of binoculars.
Vlamingh Head Lighthouse
- Exmouth's unusual history - Exmouth is literally the town which America built in the Australian outback. In the 1960s the U.S. built a military base at North West Cape as part of its naval communications network. Exmouth was created to service the base. The town was officially opened on the same day the base was commissioned. You can explore the now abandoned base complete with a baseball field and old ten-pin bowling alley. Head north out of town toward the towering antenna array and you can't miss it.